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The Science and Culture of Surfing by David M. Kennedy

The Science and Culture of Surfing

by David M. Kennedy
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Book cover type: Hardcover
  • ISBN13: 9783031809781
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • Subject: N/A
  • Publisher: Springer
  • Publisher Imprint: Springer
  • Publication Date:
  • Pages: 290
  • Original Price: EUR 159.99
  • Language: English
  • Edition: N/A
  • Item Weight: 588 grams
  • BISAC Subject(s): Earth Sciences / Oceanography

This volume explores all aspects of surfing from the underlying physics of waves, the shape of wave breaks through to the development of surf culture and its influence on society. It explores the links between science and engineering with arts, sociology

David is a world-leading Professor of Coastal Geomorphology based at the University of Melbourne, Australia. He grew up on the beaches of eastern Australia and was an active volunteer with Surf Life Saving Australia for over a decade conducting many rescues and preventative actions on the beaches of Sydney and Wollongong. He has received numerous awards including the 2020 Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Innovation in Citizen Science. His multidisciplinary approach to understanding the coast has led to regular media interviews for a global audience from print and digital media to mass-broadcast television.

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