Die Verarbeitung Von Effektgarnen in Der Kette
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Die Mode verlangt immer wieder fur Heimtextilien- und Beklei- dungsgewebe eine vielseitige und abwechslungsreiche Gestaltung. Diese wird durch das Zusammenspiel von Garnmaterial und -struk- tur, Farbe und Bindungstechnik erreicht. Garne oder Zwirne, die in einem Gewebe eine besondere optische Wirkung oder Struktur erzeugen, werden unter dem Sammelbegriff Effektgarne zusammen- gefaBt. Sie konnen auf unterschiedliche Weise in allen mogli- chen Abarten und Varianten hergestellt werden. Allen Effekt- garnen gemeinsam ist durchweg eine groBe UngleichmaBigkeit im Garnquerschnitt eigen, die zu Verarbeitungsschwierigkeiten in der Weberei fuhren kann, insbesondere wenn die Garne als Ket- te eingesetzt werden. Oft sind die Effekte im Garnverband nicht genugend verankert, die Garnverdickungen schieben sich an Kettfadenwachterlamellen, Webelitzen und im Bereich des Webeblattes wahrend des Webevorganges auf und die absteh- den Fasern hindern den WebprozeB. Solche Garne lassen sich ei- gentlich nur in SchuBrichtung verarbeiten. Da aber der Wunsch besteht, Effekte in beiden Geweberichtungen zu haben, werden die Garne meist unter erheblichen Schwierigkeiten ebenfalls als Kette eingesetzt. Dies geschieht zum Teil auch, weil die Voraussetzungen fur eine ausreichende Vorausbeurteilung der Verarbeitbarkeit fehlen. Die vorliegende Ausarbeitung hat daher folgende Ziele: 1) Die Anforder ngen zu ermitteln, die an ein Effekt- garn im Hinblick auf eine befriedigende Verarbeit- barkeit als Kettgarn gestellt werden mussen. 2) Die Grundlagen fur eine Vorausbeurteilung der Ver- arbeitbarkeit durch entsprechende Vorprlifungen der Garne zu schaffen. 3) Die Moglichkeiten zu untersuchen, die in der Webe- reivorbereitung, in der Schlichterei und in der Weberei bestehen, die Verarbeitung von Effektgar- nen in der Kette zu verbessern.
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