From the Back Cover
Addictive but usually legal, crack climbing has become hugely popular in recent years. As a result, specific techniques and strategies have been developed by climbers to help tackle everything from low-angle slab cracks to soaring splitters. Through a blend of text, color photos, and illustrations, Crack Climbing! clearly demonstrates and explains what it takes to climb cracks successfully. FROM THE INTRODUCTION"It may be the fun and fluid motion of crack climbing, the sustained athleticism required, the 'head' for placing gear, or even the amazing like-minded individuals we meet at the crags that attract us to this sport. But more than all that, we like clipping the anchor on a wonderfully strenuous crack and experiencing the worn-out yet satisfied feeling of arriving home at the end of a long, happy journey." Starting with an overview of the unique crack types found at the world's most famous climbing areas, the authors move on to cover such topics as: - Jamming techniques (finger, hand, fist, foot, body)- Strategies for specific crack types such as chimneys, liebacks, underclings, and roof cracks- How to safely lead cracks and place protection- Techniques for efficient movement and strength recovery while climbing- Obtaining the psychological edge to be a successful crack climber
About LisaRock climbing has been
Lisa Gnade's primary focus for more than 20 years. Climbing is more than an activity or a sport; it's her way of life. She began climbing during her years as a student at Flagstaff's Northern Arizona University, in order to fulfill a required credit in physical education. That was an unplanned, but gratifying turning point in life, the pursuit of 9 - 5 having gone astray. Years of climbing and living the dream have been their own reward. Her favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Paradise Forks, Arco and Mallorca to name a few. Extensive climbing related trips throughout Europe and the western US, and the effort to complete many climbing goals, have helped bring to life Lisa's "seize the day" attitude. Now, seizing the opportunity to work as importer and distributor, doing sales management duties, and covering territory as a sales representative for DMM and Wild Country climbing equipment and Red Chili climbing shoes, she finds herself with even greater appreciation for time on the rock. Her companion in both work and leisure is husband and fellow climbing enthusiast, Steve Petro. When not climbing or working, Lisa can be found resort skiing in the Wasatch, reading foreign language and history textbooks for entertainment, or spending time with her five furry children, the cats.
Climbing Background - First woman in the world to consistently climb 5.13 cracks (both First Free Ascents and repeats of many established lines)
- HasClimbed equally difficult routes on both Sport and Crack routes 5.13c, dozens of 5.13's
- Has been climbing for more than 20 years
- Hardest FFA by a woman in Germany's Frankenjura in 1998
- Has been a guide for a major service and enjoys teaching
- Has enjoyed climbing in at least a dozen countries
- Continues to climb locally, nationally and in fabulous locations worldwide
About Steve Rock climbing has been Steve Petro's main athletic interest for the last 30 years. He is renowned for his many first ascents in Utah's Canyonlands and various locations in Wyoming. Steve has climbed extensively, throughout the United States and Europe. His favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, American Fork, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Spanish limestone and of course his old stomping ground, Fremont Canyon. His linebacker¿s physique and powerful climbing style continue to draw stares from onlookers, even at age 54! Steve supports his climbing lifestyle by working as CEO for Excalibur, importer of DMM and Wild Country climbing hardware and Red Chili shoes. When not climbing or working, Steve enjoys snowboarding, traveling and reading books about current affairs, history and myths.
Climbing Background - First Free Ascent of the 1800' route, Wind and Sand and Stars 5.12c in Zion National Park with Jeff Lowe and Lisa Gnade
- First Free Ascent of the 1000' route, Shimmering Abstraction 5.11 in the Bighorn Mountains
- First person to free climb the most difficult route, 5.12, in the Tetons, on Mt Moran
- First Free Ascent of Fiddler on the Roof, 1987, Wyoming¿s premier roof crack
- More than 100 First Free Ascents (FFA's)
- Has climbed equally difficult (up to 5.13d) routes on both Sport and Traditional routes
- Nearly one hundred 5.13¿s on his tick list, trad and sport
- Has climbed vertical frozen waterfalls in the late 70's and early 80's
